Wednesday, February 8, 2012
Hunting tarpon
We arrived in San Carlos at 5 am. Found our hotel, which we booked on line for $18/night, and had a nap. Or at least we tried. Turned out the saying that you get what you paid for applies here. The place was just big enough for two single beds and a walk way between them to the bathroom, and no air circulation. Hot and claustrophobic. Had planned to stay two nights but we were able to get all the information we needed in one day, thanks to Catherine's excellent Spanish. The next day we got on a river boat, the equivalent of the chicken bus, and motored to El Castillo. Where the tarpon live.
We found our hotel and headed for a restaurant on the river for a cold beer. Our mission was to find a local fisherman who would take us tarpon fishing, while avoiding the lodges as they charge way more than our budget would appreciate. Within about 15 minutes Catherine was talking to a couple of young guys who just docked their dug out canoe. They had small fish in the canoe. She thought here is a good place to start. Before I could finish half my beer I found myself out in the middle of the river, in rapids with these two guys in their canoe. As soon as they learnt I like to fish they thought it would be fun to take me out with them and watch them fish their way. One would drive the boat (15hp) motor while the other threw out a circular weighted net tied to his wrist. A half hour later he had caught 6 fish, sold 5 to a local on shore, and they gave me the other fish for supper. The restaurant BBQ'd it and I got to finish my beer. I knew this was going to be a place I would like. Turns out the two guys knew someone who would take us tarpon fishing. Perfecto. Six am the next morning we are on the river trolling for tarpon. Within an hour my dream came true, I hooked on to a big fish. After 5 minutes of ripping out line it exploded out of the water, just like on TV. It shook the hook and back to the river. A collective sigh from everyone. If you have never seen a tarpon explode out of the water, it's like a miniature whale breaching except it goes straight up. By law all the fish caught here are released. So I guess that's what happened. It would have been nice to get a picture, but regardless it was exciting. It took awhile before my heart rate settled down. In about another hour Johns reel was screaming. This one never broke the surface so we never got to see it. The guide estimated mine was about 120 lbs. We spent 11 hours in the boat and had a couple more hits. It has been an exciting 24 hours so far in El Castillo.
Our room is another story, or should I say adventure. It was another $18 room. The problem with this room was not the lack of air circulation but the excess air flow through the room due to the construction technique of not completely joining the wall to the roof, or parts of the floor to the walls. The walls are built of 1 x 4's. You can hear the person snoring in the adjoining room, about 12 inches from your head. Another reason why ear plugs are essential part of your travel gear.